We're staying grounded with our friend, artist and designer Presley Oldham, who launched his upcycled + sustainable jewelry line in May, 2020. Get to know him below and check out his pieces here.
PLEASURE GROUND: Have you always been interested in sustainable design and upcycling?
PRESLEY: I’ve gone to flea markets since I was a baby and I’ve always collected things. I have a lot of stuff in a lot of places because I move around often, but something I carried with me to Los Angeles were beads and pearls that I’ve accumulated over the years. It’s fascinating when you’re able to give something a new life - like what you are doing. Turning an older strand that fell by the wayside into something that’s desirable again. We all need to learn to recycle in more inventive ways. There’s more longevity, more meaning, and more feeling in the products when they’re upcycled.
PG: I love that. So it’s been a lifelong hobby of yours to collect things. How did you start your self-titled jewelry brand?
P: I’ve always collected things...it all started with Beanie Babies. Everyone in my family does some sort of art, so I’ve always had something in my hands. I’m very lucky to have grown up in a very design saturated world. I’ve always known how to make jewelry, but it wasn’t until this year that I found some more direction with it. It started from a convergence of many things - COVID lockdowns, work disappearing and thinking about the resources I had around me at my disposal - and how I could create a livelihood from that, which is what I’m still trying to do everyday! I’m very much about using what you have around you and creating something out of that.
PG: That resonates completely! I feel like this year has forced us to think in those terms and get creative.
P: We’ve been given the gift of time, in a way, and slowing down, which none of us were taught to do. We’re told to speed up from before we start walking. This year has shown us things that you thought you’d reckoned with and put to bed, but you know...here you are! That’s what the last photo series I did of myself was about, the many sides of yourself.
PG: There's a strong performative element to those photographs, has your background in acting influenced your approach to designing jewelry?
P: That’s ingrained in me. I still think in that way, and try to integrate my performance background as much as possible into this work. Again, it’s about using the toolbox that you have and the resources around you.
PG: Totally. Do you feel that where you live influences your practice and style?
P: Ooo yeah, I mean, where I live is a constant question in my life regardless of a pandemic. I love to move and find new places and do feel like that affects the wardrobe and personality you adopt in that place. Different places can teach you different things. I’m in Santa Fe right now and don’t know anyone here, so I’m not really concerned with how I look. I’m in gym shorts and sweatpants most days, and it’s been such a relief. It’s not like New York or LA, where there’s this performance that goes along with going to the grocery stores.
PG: Has the solitude you're experiencing in Santa Fe inspired your most current pieces?
P: Definitely. I’ve always said I liked to be alone, and...well, I got it! I’m trying to reckon with this solitude, and ground myself during this time. Since I live with and help out my grandparents, I can’t really go and see people as much as I would if I was on my own. So I’ve kind of erased that social part of my brain. No boys, no friends, not here - this has been my little retreat. I think the solitude has helped me because I’ve had to face all of these sides of myself. I’m very thankful for this time but I'm also definitely ready to go back into the world and kiss all the boys.
PG: The new pieces I’ve seen of yours are stunning, fluid, genderless forms. Can you tell us a bit about them?
P: Yeah! Those pearls were leftover from the previous seasons, so they’re all kind of the wonkier shapes that are very mismatched. Somehow together, they create fluid forms like you said. I like that they can appeal to everyone - in my head anyone can wear them. All ages have bought pearls. And I like creating one of a kind items like these, that once they’re gone, they're gone. It endows it with a bit more meaning since it’s not mass produced. It becomes more yours in a way.
PG: Completely. Would you consider yourself more of a maximalist or a minimalist?
P: I think I straddle that line really well. I also switch sides cyclically, where some phases of my life, there’s been so much shit, walls filled, chotskies everywhere. And then periods where I’ll have a small suitcase and my pair of linen pants and a rock- and that’s it. I don’t know, I think I was brought up in a text-book definition maximalist world. If you look at my uncle's clothing or any of my grandparents' artwork, it’s all just like everything is there. I mean, the title of my uncle’s retrospective was ‘All of Everything’, so, you know, it’s in me. But as I grow, I definitely strive to live with less. I don’t like clutter and I don’t like a lot of stuff around me. Things have to have a function, even if it’s a silly function in my mind like ‘I like the way this rock feels in my hand’. But objects need function, and I think I’m growing towards more minimal tendencies.
PG: I definitely feel that. Do you believe in uniforms?
P: Yeah I definitely believe in preparing the space to best support you and get you where you need. I think clothes are a part of that. Outfitting the room is the same as outfitting yourself, in a way. So, yes, uniforms are great. I hate waking up and having to fuss about what I’m gonna wear when it’s just a regular day. If there’s an occasion, then sure that’s fun, but there's no occasion right now…
PG: I’ve become a bit of a uniform person this year... Who are some of your major influences?
P: I love Elsa Peretti. All of her work for Tiffany’s is otherworldly. She builds such meaning into her jewelry, each piece is so thoughtful. And I admire her as a human as well, doing so many different things throughout her life. I personally wear and collect her designs, and I'm constantly searching on eBay for her old pieces. I also love late 80s to late 90s Prada.
PG: It’s been inspiring to watch your path unfold throughout the years. In a few words, how would you describe your brand’s style?
P: I’m picturing a dot between maximalist and minimalist. I think there’s a coolness, in terms of temperature rather than aura. There’s both a warmth and a coolness to my work. It’s been fun to play with dressing the pearls up and down. I think they’re simple yet complex.
PG: Freshwater pearls are interesting too, because in market terms they’re less valuable due to their beautiful imperfections. Isn’t that a metaphor for life!
P: Ah, yes, I very much agree. There are so many meaningful metaphors around freshwater pearls. All of my pearls are sourced locally. Most are from a small vendor here in Santa Fe. My wire is from a local metalsmith. I’m trying to keep it as small as possible. Another contradiction within trying to start a sustainable business is wanting to grow to be a bigger company, all the while keeping it ethical and sustainable. Part of the trend in fashion that we’re both pushing towards is for slower movement and more intentional, deep change. Do the work and grow the change.
PG: Yes! Slowing down and setting intentions. What are some sustainable choices you’ve incorporated into your life?
P: Buy less. Shopping on Etsy, eBay everyday. Find your local places. It’s a generic thing to say, but really, find the people around you who need help and find ways to support them.
